Choosing the makeup for an entire cast can be overwhelming . Over the counter makeup doesn’t hold up under the heat of stage lights, and even if you’re lucky enough to have LED lights that don’t heat up your stage, you’ll still have stressed actors that sweat under pressure. You want quality makeup that doesn’t break the bank and is easy to use. After many stage makeup workshops, most of which heavily referenced Ben Nye & Mehron brands, I would love to pass on some information to help guide you in your stage makeup selection.
Foundation
For years, my number one choice in stage foundation was (and still is) Ben Nye cream foundation. I started out by purchasing the fair/medium personal creme makeup kit since I had no idea where to even begin. I’ve since learned that you need a foundation color one shade darker than your skin tone so that you won’t look pale under the bright stage lights.
Ben Nye’s Theatrical Creme Personal Kit (pictured above) is a great place to start. For just under $25, you’ll be able to try several of their products to experience their staying power for yourself.
The kit includes Creme Foundation (choose from PK-0 Fair: Lightest, PK-1 Fair: Light, PK-2 Fair: Medium/Tan, PK-3 Olive: Medium, or PK-4 Olive), Creme Contour Palette (includes Highlight, Rouge,Shadow, and Lip Color), Face Powder, Eye Pencil, Flat Brush, Powder Puff, Sponge Applicator, and a Stipple Sponge. The kit will last through several dozen applications, sufficient for production or classroom.
Another foundation that I like just as well as Ben Nye is made by Mehron. Their CreamBlend Stick (Nope, that’s not a typo) is slightly cheaper than Ben Nye when purchasing individually and slightly creamier which makes it easier to apply. For just under $13, you get .75 ounces.
Speaking of dramatic colors, Ben Nye is my absolute favorite for deep rich colors. Their Ultimate FX comes in 32 vibrant colors. Ben Nye also has an awesome bruise wheel. With the Bruise Wheel, you’ll have all of the colors you need in one place instead of trying to juggle six colors at once in order to create realistic looking bruises.
Mehron also has several good options for deep, rich, dramatic color including Mehron Fantasy FX Face Painting Makeup, Lipuid Makeup, and colored versions of the Cream Blend Stick. They come in a variety of colors and don’t have to be used primarily on the face. The green works great for creating Elphaba, blue was perfect for Genie, and the purple(and pink) were great for accenting the Mad Hatter.
Sealers
Mehron’s Ultra Fine Setting Powder is great for keeping your makeup in place, and the “Neutral” works with any skin tone. Plus it’s less expensive than Ben Nye.
My Genie in Aladdin kept getting blue on our curtains until I used Final Seal on him!
For the holy grail of sealers, you’ve got to try Ben Nye’s Final Seal which is not only a great fixative for locking in makeup for long-lasting finish, but also a great primer. When sprayed on before makeup application, it provides a great base for oily skin or heavy sweaters to keep the makeup from running, and applied after makeup application, it locks in all makeup, including dramatic makeup colors. Final Seal also has a fresh, minty smell.
Tip: The larger bottle of Ben Nye’s Final Seal is the most economical, but that size doesn’t come with a sprayer, so I purchased a few empty, travel size spray bottles for application and filled them with the sealer.
Tools of the Trade
To completely avoid cross contamination, provide each actor with their own Styrofoam plate with the makeup they’re going to use on it. Use a small makeup spatula to place makeup on the plates.
Many people like beauty blenders, but its more economical and less risky to provide actors with their own wedge which can be disposed of after each show. Plus, they can be purchased in bulk, so you’ll have plenty to go around.
Tip: After each use, clean the makeup by spraying a 90% (or higher) rubbing alcohol on the open makeup and let it sit for five minutes.
Wash brushes with soap & cold water. Warm water causes the bristles to expand, shrink, and ultimately fall out.
Makeup Brushes
I like to keep lots of makeup brushes on hand. I don’t like using the same brush on different people for sanitary reasons. After everyone’s makeup is done, they can all be washed out to be used for the next show. When purchasing brushes, avoid getting cheap ones that fall apart after a few uses and washes.
Some people prefer facial powder puffs instead of brushes, but they’re difficult to clean. Disposable cotton rounds would be a good alternative, especially if purchasing for cast members.
Mascara & Eyeliner
For mascara and eyeliner, one safe option is to have actor’s purchase their own. If you provide mascara, buy disposable mascara wands, but never re-dip the wand once you’ve given it to an actor.
Ben Nye’s cake eyeliner is great when paired with disposable eyeliner brushes.
When it comes to makeup removal, begin by using a cold cream to break down the makeup. Then wash the face off with soap and water. Many people like makeup wipes, however they can lead to break outs. The coarseness of the wipes can cause micro-tears, which may then harbor bacteria. Many wipes also contain harsh chemicals that may burn the skin.
If you’re worried about these issues and still want to use a wipe, I recommend trying Limelight’s Make Off Remover wipes.a They are 100% paraben-free and contain a mild cleanser take off a full face of makeup without leaving any slick residue.
Micro Fiber Cloths
Another great choice is the MMR Micro Make-Up Remover cloth, which allow you to take off makeup with just water! This is great for everyday makeup and wonderful for using after soap and water with stage makeup to grab anything that the soap and water missed. They are super soft, machine washable, & certified to kill 99.9% of germs on contact. Whether buying for just you or to put in makeup kits for your entire cast, at 8 for $21.99, these are a steal!
Tip: Microfiber cloths work great for getting stage makeup off of costumes & stage curtains.
Storage
If you’re spending the time and money to get good quality makeup and applicators, then you need to take care of your inventory. Don’t just leave items laying around; find a storage container that suits your needs. The container that I have now isn’t as pretty as the one pictured; it’s basically just a tackle box. It’s simple, but it gets the job done.
For those of you looking for something bigger, I recommend a rolling caddy.
Feel like a star with this Hollywood style cosmetic lighted makeup mirror. Say goodbye to uneven makeup and unintentional highlights and shadows with the help of natural, bright lighting. With the options of yellow/warm lighting and white/bright lighting, you’ll have the perfect lighting for both onstage and off! The mirror features a sleek design and twelve white, led dimmer bulbs and touch control design that allows you to simply turn the mirror on/off and adjust brightness with the sensor switch in the front of the mirror. The mirror is sturdy and tilts, so you can adjust it however you need! The metal frame and sturdy base were built to last. Included is a 12v usb charger for powering the mirror. It stands 19″ tall and measures 14.5″ wide.
In Conclusion
After over ten years of productions, Ben Nye and Mehron are the tried and true makeup brands that I know that I can count on. That’s not to say that I haven’t used other brands; these have just proven more effective in my experience. For anyone who’s only option is over the counter, I would steer towards active wear or sports strength makeup, but if you’re at all able, try these products. I really think that you’ll be happy that you did. And always remember, safety first!
Foundation
Tons of great tips. I have not tried Ben Nye before. I do love the makeup erasers that remove your makeup with only water, these rule!!!!
I love all those little brushes and applicators! Theatrical makeup is so much fun!
This is such a thorough list for all of the basics! It can be so hard trying to get your kit together!